GP60 Build - Back on the bench at last.

I finally dug out the GP60's and got them on the workbench. Now I've got a proper modelling cave in the garage I can work on a build without taking over the kitchen table.

In the meantime I've acquired a Proto 2000 GP60 shell which I was able to use as a comparison.

First thing I noticed was that the models weren't as correct as I remembered, the horn looks too low on one of them and the cannon sub-base was definitely sitting on a warped walkway.

So, a bit of jimmying with a scalpel and the nose and sub base are off the model and ready to be re-fitted.  A small piece broke off the edge of one sub-base but it will easily glue back on.

I realised that I had glued them in place with the shell sitting flat, but due to the low pilot face that resulted in an upward bend on the walkway - the solution is to let the pilot face overhang the edge of the workbench when fitting the nose.

Second thing is that the horn looks too low down on the hood.  It came with a really tall looking horn stand that I thought was too big, so I just glued the horn directly onto the top of the hood.  Looking at it now I'm thinking the horn should be up a bit higher.

Norfolk Southern GP60 Project - NS #7121 Cab

Work continues on my GP60 project locomotives (see HERE for details)

This is the locomotive that utilises a new-old-stock Railpower shell, I am building this one with all Cannon & Co. parts while #7129 has a combination of Cannon and salvaged Athearn parts. 

This is my first time using Cannon cab components, and I'm very impressed with the quality and variety of options these kits allow.

The sub base is built based on the precise details of the prototype locomotive, an easy job given the sheer number of options Cannon provide in their excellent kit.

The cab itself is a similarly detailed kit, and goes together very easily, although unfortunately I realised after I'd finished that I had read some advice which suggested leaving the roof off until after assembly, to make it easier to add the glazing.

The nose features the correct GP60 brakewheel side section and the toilet hatch, exactly as per the real locomotive.

Here is a photograph showing everything test fitted, the anticlimber and sub-base have been glued in place.



I had bought a set of Cannon GP tread-plates for the model, but the step shape is different from the older GP38-2 so I am going to have to rethink my approach to the tread for these locomotives.

Here's a shot of both models showing the progress so far.

Norfolk Southern GP60 Project - NS #7129 Cab

Work continues on my GP60 project locomotives (see HERE for details)

I had been intending to use Cannon & Co cab part for one of these two GP60's and a salvaged Athearn SD50 cab for the other.  I realised it made more sense to use the Cannon parts on the Railpower shell and keep all of the salvaged parts together on the same model.  So NS #7129 will be a model made using recovered components.

The SD50 cab came from my basket-case ebay purchase back in March last year (see HERE for details) and was painted for Conrail and partially repainted/stripped.  Because the cab/sub-base are smaller parts I used a couple of old snap-top pill containers as stripping baths.

The parts fitted neatly into the containers and the lids helped to keep everything airtight so the 99% alcohol could do its job 

The Athearn RTR conrail paint turned out to be a bit more resiliant so I left the parts soaking in the shed for a week to soften all of the paint.

Here's a shot of the parts after scrubbing.  The brakewheel came loose during the cleaning and will need to be refitted or replaced.

Intrestingly the 99% alchohol didn't strip the silver paint from the window frames, I'm not sure why, but it might be the type of ink that those parts are printed with.  In this case that actually a good thing as it saves me from needing to try and remove the cab window sides (I'm not even certain that it is possible to remove them once they have been glued in place).

The next stage will be to assemble the locomotive and begin adding the main details, including a multitude of Cannon & Co parts.

Norfolk Southern GP60 Project - NS #7129 Shell

Work continues on my GP60 project locomotives (see HERE for details)

A hectic week at work meant the Athearn shell for NS #7129 sat in 99% alcohol in the shed for the rest of the week.  I fished it out today and finished scrubbing the paint off.  There are still a few encrusted areas of paint in the fine detail areas and ridges that will need to be teased out with a toothpick or similar blunt object.

This shot shows the shell after cleaning, the paint along the cab area is leftover glue residue from the original wide cab, the new sub base and walkway tread will cover any remaining blemishes on the surface.

This shot shows the main detail parts that will be added to the model, I have a Cannon & Co cab, 88 inch nose and Dash 2 sub base, as well as etched treads, anticlimbers and the usual hoses and other detail.

The next step will be to assemble and add the various detail parts before priming the shell.  I will be working on #7121 in parallel and both shells will be painted at the same time.

Norfolk Southern GP60 Project - Stripping the Athearn paint

Work begins on my GP60 project locomotives (see HERE for details)

The base model for NS #7129 is an Athearn GP60M in BNSF livery.  The first step is to strip the paint from the model, so that detailing can begin.  I use 99% alcohol to remove the paint, this is a plastic safe way to strip the paint from models without damaging the shell, but it should always be done in a well ventilated area.  I work outside when stripping models.

I seal the model in a tupperware box overnight as a first step.  Here's how things looked this morning, as you can see there is no apparent change to the paint, sometimes it will peel off without any help, but as this particular bottle of alcohol has been used a few times, it is a bit diluted.

Despite looking untouched, the paint is actually already softened, and should start to lift off the model with some rubbing.  I use thick rubber gloves when handling the parts in the alcohol.  The paint tends to remain in the grooves and detail areas of the shell.

An old toothbrush is the ideal tool to use for scrubbing the model, and after a minute or so the shell looks like this, the paint is removed from the majority of the long hood and walkways.  The paint around the pilot ends and steps is not ready yet so I've sealed the shell back in the tub for a few more hours to finish the job.  I have found it can take a couple of days to loosen all the paint, especially on the modern factory paint.  Older 'blue box' paint comes off more easily.